In Tomok are a lot of souvenir stalls as well. This time especially with clothes and other stuff. But again, no tourist around, and we are the only prey. So we don't stay long, hop on our bikes and go back to Tuktuk, enjoying the views over Lake Toba.
Tuktuk has its own cinema. An Englishman who lives here permanently, created a business with the copied video CD's which are for sale everywhere in Southeast Asia. He has a large collection for rent, or you can watch them in a small room with large TV. We are watching "The Lord of the Rings" here. The copy was obviously made in an actual cinema: we can hear the laughter of the audience, and once in a while there is a shadow passing by. Amazing how the illegal copying industry works here.
In order to explore more of Samosir, we hire some motorbikes. After some instructions, we leave while the people shout at us to drive on the left side of the road, something we would already forgot. Easily we pass the many hills on our way to the first target: Samanindo. Here is a the Batak museum of Samosir located. After a little search, we find it just in time for an dance exhibition.
In front of an open terrain a more tourists are gathered than we saw in total the last couple of days. And in front of a scale model of a traditional Batak house are a group Batak people dancing. Well, dancing is a big word for the small movements they make. The program indicates multiple dances, but we see little variation. When some tourists join them, we hardly see a difference. And then a dancing doll enters the scene, making more moves than the dancers themselves. The tourists are supposed to give a donation to the doll, which is rewarded with a loud "Horas". And that is the most exciting part of the exhibition.
The accompanying Batak museum isn't much either. A little disappointed we hop pack on our motorbikes and move on. What amazes us most is that this place attracts most of the tourists around Lake Toba.
We move on along the outside of the island, passing many traditional houses, most of them with zinc roofs. Also many impressing grave towers, with on top of them a miniature traditional house.
As we approach the other side of the island, the mainland comes in sight. A large white spot on the crater edge draws our attention. It almost seems like a ski trail, but we suppose it must be chalk or sand. A little later we arrive at the village where the island is connected to the main land by a small bridge. In fact, the bridge was only needed since the Dutch dug a canal to separate the island from the main land in 1906. We pass the bridge and drive up to search for our next goal: the hot springs. The closer we get, the more we realize the white spot is where we will find the hot springs.
The hot springs are accompanied by a number of restaurants and a large parking lot. But there are not many tourists. At one of the restaurants we park our motorbikes and order a meal. While we wait we see a little girl playing with to chicks, one of them bright yellow, the other bright green. Funny little animals, although it is sad that they probably have no mother and are obviously artificially colored.
After lunch we search for the hot springs. Every restaurant appears to have a bath of swimming pool fed with hot water from the springs, but we want to find the springs themselves. So we climb up, until we reach a restaurant that only lets us through if we order something. Here is a pool as well, but also a natural bath in the rocks. And as we climb up, we reach the actual source of the hot springs. In some kind of white moon landscape there is a stream of hot, yellow water. It is boiling up from the rocks, although we cannot see exactly where.
After a lovely, purifying, very hot bath, and a cola at the restaurant, we descend to our motorbikes. Although there is a market in the village we pass, we decide to go back to Tuktuk. It takes us two hours to go back, including a few stops for a beautiful view and a drink. We are back before dark, so we can cool off in the lake.
That night there is a traditional dance performance in one of the restaurants of Tuktuk. We are convinced that there should be more to it than the slow motion dance we saw that morning, we decide to have a look. But what we see is even worse than that. Odd, since the traditional music sounds happy and dynamic.
After the dance there is a singing performance. Five men are putting all their energy in a few nice songs. Quite a contrast to the dance performance. The surprise is complete when the dancers invite the audience to swing with them. So they can actually dance enthusiastically, although it is not very traditional.
Having seen most of the sights around Lake Toba, we search for an alternative activity. We find a cooking course, but that one is a bit expensive. A woodcarving course, however, is cheap so we join a few souvenir makers. We get to pick something we like in order to try and copy it. After some instructions how to cut, we try for ourselves. Bit by bit our blocks of wood get some shape. Our teachers watch, adjust, and show how to continue.
Sabine's mini mask is almost done. After sanding it, it can be polished and varnished. Patrick's puppet takes a little longer, but after lunch, when our hands can be relieved from the cramps, it can be finished as well. Sabine has continued with carving her name, and begins with carving a guitar. Patrick tries a gecko. But then the fun is over. The leg of the gecko breaks, and the knife hits his hand. There is a lot of blood, but after binding it, it seems to be okay. But it is clear that we have not found a new occupation.
Most of the evenings we dine at the restaurant of Lekjon. But we do want to try something different. So we walk the island, searching for nice restaurants. Around Lekjon are a few of them, but there are just a few people every where, And the further we walk, the sadder it gets. Many restaurants wait for the first guests of the evening, others are already closed. We do find one restaurant that draws more public. It is the Bamboo restaurant, with nice decoration (bamboo obviously), good food and nice music. According to Roy Bamboo, the owner, there are many guests every night. It seems to be the exception to the rule that business is bad around Lake Toba these days.
As we have seen and explored every aspect of Lake Toba it is time to move on. It was a nice relaxing week with nice activities. It is a pity that the locals are desperate because of the decline in number of tourists. Once, there were probably too many tourists, but too little is not good either, for the great destination that Lake Toba actually is. Indonesia Today
