Have you ever travelled for several days to reach a far-flung, unknown place? Have you ever been stuck for one week in an amazing archipelago far away from almost everything?
If you ever go to Sulawesi, e.g. to experience a funeral ceremony in Tana Toraja or to dive the walls of Bunaken Islands – as most visitors to Sulawesi tend to do – allow yourself to visit the Togean Islands. You will not regret it!
The Togean Islands, or just the Togeans, is an archipelago of 56 pristine coral and volcanic islands and islets located in the Gulf of Tomini in Central Sulawesi. The surrounding coral reef supports a rich, diverse marine life and life over the surface, the people, consists of around seven ethnic groups.
Actually, the Togeans are the only place in Indonesia where you can find all major reef types in the same place; atoll, barrier and fringing reefs.
Getting there part 1: The trip from Manado to Gorantalo
The islands are pretty difficult and exhausting to reach but really worth the effort.
First, I had to go from Manado to Gorontalo. This might seem pretty straight-forward, indeed, at least I didn’t expect any difficulty or discomfort. So as I arrived at the bus station in Manado at 9 a.m. I was truly disappointed as I realised that the next bus was to leave in “some” days - whatever “some” means around here. So, I had to find some alternative transport as I had to be in Gorontalo the next day. Luckily enough, I found a vehicle where I could stay in the truck bed, that is to say the platform at the rear, during the 8 hour ride. Sure, why not? The next day my ass had another opinion!
Getting there part 2: From Gorantalo to Wakai in the Togian Islands
In Gorontalo, which, by the way, has some very nice local warungs (food stalls), I engaged the ferry, The Puspita, the next evening at 10 p.m. I found my spot in the lower deck and around midnight we started the 15 hour ferry ride towards Wakai in Batu Daka Island in the Togeans. It was really windy that night, especially for the first 6 hours in which I didn’t get any sleep as we were packed like sardines in a tin and saltwater was momentarily squirted in my face through the small porthole – without any closing device. Later in the morning I finally managed to get some sleep, partly because most of the crew went upstairs on the deck to cook.
Finally, as I arrived in Wakai in Batu Daka Island two boats were waiting for accidental tourist. They were from the Pondok Lestari and Black Marlin Cottages, respectively. Apparently, the only two places to stay in Kadidiri Island. I chose the latter one. Kadidiri island is only a short boat trip away from Wakai.
Kadidiri Island – glassy waters and paradise beaches
If you want to dive you have to stay in Kadidiri Island. Hence, I couldn’t avoid it, but Kadidiri would have been my choice anyway. The island has a perfect beach, reasonable priced cottages and superb snorkelling just off the coast.
Don’t expect the wild culinary food experience or hot water. Pancakes are typically served for breakfast, fish for lunch and, surprise, fish for dinner. And if you are really lucky they occasionally serve fish for breakfast, e.g. if you are diving! “Fish-o-file” people will really love this place.
Electricity run from around 8 a.m. until 9 p.m., so be sure to bring a headlamp if you want to read before you go to sleep.
Batu Daka Island – departure center for transport from and to the Togean Islands
This island is the larges in the Togeans and a departure centre for transport from and to the Togeans. In Wakai I did some basic shopping, e.g. noodles, cookies, water etc.
Taipi Island – perfect snorkeling
This little almost circle shaped island is exceptional for snorkelling. You can snorkel around the entire island in approximately 45 minutes/1 hour. I saw a lot of Bump Heads and a few turtles.
On land there are around 8 bungalows and a small restaurant. But, everything is abandoned, So try to imagine remote archipelagos which, as it is, only get visits from truly, independent travellers.
The Togean Islands, or just the Togeans, is an archipelago of 56 pristine coral and volcanic islands and islets located in the Gulf of Tomini in Central Sulawesi. The surrounding coral reef supports a rich, diverse marine life and life over the surface, the people, consists of around seven ethnic groups.
Actually, the Togeans are the only place in Indonesia where you can find all major reef types in the same place; atoll, barrier and fringing reefs.
Getting there part 1: The trip from Manado to Gorantalo
The islands are pretty difficult and exhausting to reach but really worth the effort.
First, I had to go from Manado to Gorontalo. This might seem pretty straight-forward, indeed, at least I didn’t expect any difficulty or discomfort. So as I arrived at the bus station in Manado at 9 a.m. I was truly disappointed as I realised that the next bus was to leave in “some” days - whatever “some” means around here. So, I had to find some alternative transport as I had to be in Gorontalo the next day. Luckily enough, I found a vehicle where I could stay in the truck bed, that is to say the platform at the rear, during the 8 hour ride. Sure, why not? The next day my ass had another opinion!
Getting there part 2: From Gorantalo to Wakai in the Togian Islands
In Gorontalo, which, by the way, has some very nice local warungs (food stalls), I engaged the ferry, The Puspita, the next evening at 10 p.m. I found my spot in the lower deck and around midnight we started the 15 hour ferry ride towards Wakai in Batu Daka Island in the Togeans. It was really windy that night, especially for the first 6 hours in which I didn’t get any sleep as we were packed like sardines in a tin and saltwater was momentarily squirted in my face through the small porthole – without any closing device. Later in the morning I finally managed to get some sleep, partly because most of the crew went upstairs on the deck to cook.
Finally, as I arrived in Wakai in Batu Daka Island two boats were waiting for accidental tourist. They were from the Pondok Lestari and Black Marlin Cottages, respectively. Apparently, the only two places to stay in Kadidiri Island. I chose the latter one. Kadidiri island is only a short boat trip away from Wakai.
Kadidiri Island – glassy waters and paradise beaches
If you want to dive you have to stay in Kadidiri Island. Hence, I couldn’t avoid it, but Kadidiri would have been my choice anyway. The island has a perfect beach, reasonable priced cottages and superb snorkelling just off the coast.
Don’t expect the wild culinary food experience or hot water. Pancakes are typically served for breakfast, fish for lunch and, surprise, fish for dinner. And if you are really lucky they occasionally serve fish for breakfast, e.g. if you are diving! “Fish-o-file” people will really love this place.
Electricity run from around 8 a.m. until 9 p.m., so be sure to bring a headlamp if you want to read before you go to sleep.
Batu Daka Island – departure center for transport from and to the Togean Islands
This island is the larges in the Togeans and a departure centre for transport from and to the Togeans. In Wakai I did some basic shopping, e.g. noodles, cookies, water etc.
Taipi Island – perfect snorkeling
This little almost circle shaped island is exceptional for snorkelling. You can snorkel around the entire island in approximately 45 minutes/1 hour. I saw a lot of Bump Heads and a few turtles.
On land there are around 8 bungalows and a small restaurant. But, everything is abandoned, So try to imagine remote archipelagos which, as it is, only get visits from truly, independent travellers.
